Down South Up North: 2009 NYC Wine & Food Festival

Grits goes with everything, for an evening at least

“Tens years ago no self-respecting chef would be caught dead using country ham, stone-ground grits and ramps,” explains southern food journalist-ambassador Matt Lee while sipping on a mint julep at Down South Up North, the inaugural southern-themed soiree of the NYC Wine & Food Festival, held at Hill Country.

The ingredient blacklist is clearly ancient history, with the chefs at Marlow & Sons, Blue Hill and Momofuku currently offering Dixie-leaning sundries and techniques on their menus.

And then there’s fried chicken—a southern staple—which has been seen a little bit of media attention in recent weeks. What’s that, Batali has a version you say? It’s only a matter of time. The Lee Brothers joined southern chefs Art Smith, Chris Lilly and Elizabeth Karmel in hosting a seated feast fit for the Beard (Plantation) House. Dishes included pulled pork shoulder, smoked prime rib and Art Smith’s Oprah-approved fried chicken.

As huffing and puffing smokers lined up on East 26th Street—cruelly teasing the 250 guests waiting in line—we snuck in early to catch up with participants (including the evening's host Paula Deen) and swig some bourbon.

By Matt Rodbard; photos by Kelly Neal