Grilled: 2007 StarChefs Rising Stars Revue

Craig Hopson, One if by Land, Two if by Sea; formerly of Picholine

What do you think about Frank Bruni?
I read him every week, more or less. I think he’s valid, but kind of…uhhhh…there’s a hell of a difference between one three-star restaurant and another three-star restaurant. Maybe there is a system?

Have you been able to crack the code? Are there trends or regional cuisines that he is more into?
I think he defiantly enjoys Italian food. His first couple of years are better than now. He seems to have lost track of a couple of things.

Do you know what he looks like?
Yep. I saw him on the other side of the room in our restaurant. I think he knows he’s made every time, which is why it really surprises me when restaurants screw him up. It’s hilarious to read about bad service, because any restaurant worth a New York Times review should be on the ball about these things, especially new restaurants. It’s no secret that he is going to come in three months after you are open.