Grilled: 2009 Taste of the Nation

Nikki Cascone | 24 Prince

What skill should all NYC restaurant critics possess?
They should have worked every position in a restaurant, from dishwasher and bartender to chef. It's great to be a solid journalist, but they should know what goes into running a restaurant and how everything transpires onto the plate.

Have you ever spotted Frank Bruni?
Yes, I have. I was working for Jean-Georges at the time, at V Steakhouse, and we spotted him on his second and third visits. We tried to make everything perfect, without letting him know that we got him.

What does he look like?
He was completely in disguise. He had on some kind of fake facial hair and a cap. He actually takes notes right in his lap, so if you're really perceptive, you can tell.