Little Italy’s hidden gems

Piemonte Ravioli

We chat up a helpful worker wearing a green smock and a toothy smile, who steers us toward the fresh-garlic fettuccini ("You don't even need any sauce," she says) and rose-hued black-pepper tortellini stuffed with savory ricotta.

"Toss it with butter, and that's dinner tonight," she says, smiling. Later that night, we follow her instructions to al dente perfection.