NYC Italian Eats: The Old Guard

Queen Restaurant

Queen opened in downtown Brooklyn in 1958, and from the outside appears to be a nondescript joint on a dingy, crowded block. But when the French Michelin guidebook awarded it a star, it jumped to a new level of recognition, putting Queen permanently on the map in the borough of Kings. Though it's a white-tablecloth joint staffed by old guys, Queen has far more character than pretension. The classic southern Italian menu offers the expected pastas and entrees, but it's the daily specials menu from which regulars usually order.

Queen Restaurant
84 Court St. between Livingston and Shermerhorn Sts.
718-596-5955