NYC Italian Eats: Trattorias

Malatesta

The epitome of what a neighborhood trattoria should be: a handwritten menu that changes regularly, spare brick walls and banged-up wooden tables, and general revelry in every corner. Go the traditional route and share three courses—start with a simply dressed salad; then move on to the chitarra, strings of thick, hand-pressed pasta tossed with roughly chopped tomatoes; and finish with the grilled lamb chops, accompanied by a lemony side of sautéed greens. The casual, European service means you might have to flag someone down to get a glass of wine, but it doesn't really matter in a place this straightforward.

Malatesta
649 Washington St. at Christopher St.
212-741-1207