NYC's new comfort food

Grandma's Meatloaf | Delicatessen

Popularized during the Great Depression, meatloaf was a resourceful way for families to stretch their food budgets by doctoring up less-expensive meats with a mishmash of other ingredients. At first glance, the hefty dish might seem a tad too homey for the fashionable scenesters at Soho's Delicatessen. But when it comes to mass appeal, meatloaf may just be a great culinary equalizer. “It's the most classic, quintessential comfort food that's recognized by everyone,” attests chef Michael Ferraro.

The lowdown: Unlike conventional ketchup-starring versions, Ferraro's take ($15) relies on a sweet and savory housemade barbecue sauce to flavor the pickle-and-onion-studded ground Angus beef. Ferraro also eschews the usual family-style presentation in favor of an individual mini-loaf resting atop a fluffy layer of mashed potatoes. Consider it portion-control for the eatery's figure-conscious crowd.

Delicatessen
54 Prince St. at Lafayette St.
212-226-0211