There's a new belly in town

Lulzim Rexhepi | Kittichai

You may not have heard of Kittichai's chef Lulzim Rexhepi. We hadn't either. But his moody restaurant in the 60 Thompson hotel is something of an overlooked jewel—if you can get over the $15 XO rum cocktails. The cuisine is classic Thai, but upscale and unhindered by the lemongrass-or-die banalities. Case in point: a traditional Thai duck "omelet." Actually, it's more of an egg roll, but not in the Chinese takeout sense. Duck eggs are scrambled, fried and wrapped around sautéed morning glory and small bits of intense lamb bacon. The flavor bombs—the most (wonderfully) "lamby" dish we sampled—pairs well with the eggs and tamarind and plum sugar sauce.

Kittichai (60 Thompson St., 212-219-2000)