There's a new belly in town

Pete Daversa | Hill Country

Though not native to central Texas, lamb is starting to become a staple for Hill Country pitmaster Pete Daversa. A recent Easter special saw the Flatiron barbecue temple run out of chili-rubbed lamb ribs before 6 p.m. Smoked lamb belly, though, is not necessarily for the population. "Not everybody is going to enjoy it, but if I cater to the public on everything the food will get diluted." Consider us in the "enjoy" category. After cutting the belly into bite-size cubes, the chef seasons with his classic Hill Country salt/pepper rub before smoking, flash-frying and smoking a second time. The double smoking ultimately masks most of the lamby-ness, which only hits at the last moment. Sauce is strictly optional, according to Daversa.

Hill Country (30 W. 26th St., 212-255-4544)