There's a new belly in town

Julian Medina | Toloache

Julian Medina is a master of the Franco-fied taco—he's won our devoted following by taking traditional Mexican flavors and adding a refined flair. Chicken enchiladas are accented with dried fig salsa and a green apple salad. A brick-oven quesadilla arrives stuffed with manchego and black truffles. The chef even attempted to wrap foie gras in a tortilla—which has since disappeared from the menu.

Medina's methodology is similar with his two lamb specials. As a starter (pictured), belly is skimmed then braised with aromatic chiles and avocado leaves. The liquid is strained into a consommé, which is combined with a garbanzo salad. For the tacos, the moist meat is broken down further and shredded with chile morita salsa, avocado and queso fresco. Why use lamb belly? "Pork belly is overrated," says Medina flatly.

Toloache (251 W. 50th St., 212-581-1818)