A Voce

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Though famed chef Andrew Carmellini departed A Voce in the spring of 2007, the menu's direction hasn't veered too far off-course (though the famous duck meatballs are nowhere to be found). The food is still served in a Masters-of-the-Universe room straight out of the Design Within Reach catalog; the Eames chairs swivel for better people-watching, and the green-leather-topped tables look better for meetings than for meatballs (wait-there are no meatballs). The food comes off as high-class home-style: Italian classics (sweetbreads Milanese, grilled chicken with polenta) prepared for a stylish, moneyed crowd. Missy Robbins has formally taken over the cooking duties as Executive Chef. The former Spiaggia chef is most certainly prepared for the close up, which began...yesterday. 

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