Some places in Red Hook get to be neighborhood joints by virtue of their isolation. Dean Caselnova's letting the honest trattoria fare do the negotiating at his eponymous new 45-seater, which is also the name of a restaurant his grandfather and uncles ran in Long Island a generation yore. Caselnova, a former finance guy, started cooking professionally in 2006 after culinary school and training in Italy (Bologna and the Amalfi Coast), all of which informs his pan-Italian menu. House specialties are classics like tagliatelle with traditional bolognese sauce, manicotti (his mother's recipe), and, slightly less classic, a shell steak with Chianti demi-glaze. Sunday dinners bring family-style "Sunday sauce" (aka gravy) on fusilli, meatballs and sausages, homemade ricotta, biscotti, and a cup of joe for 17 bones. It's BYO juice until the liquor license clears.