Felidia

Though more upscale than old-time, chef Lidia Bastianich makes our list of "old-guard favorites" (see sidebar) because she is the undisputed queen of haute Italian cuisine in this country (she just cooked for the Pope, for chrissakes!) Since 1981, Felidia has remained an elegant, special-occasion restaurant located in an Upper East Side brownstone, though its dining room is populated primarily by uptowners and tourists. Felidia's menu is creative (black-and-white fettuccine), contemporary (organic whole-wheat oricchiette) and critically acclaimed (beet risotto), albeit expensive.

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Turtle Bay restaurants, Midtown East restaurants, Midtown restaurants, Italian restaurants