British food: bloody good in New York!

Gordon Ramsay at The London

The pitch: The stateside outpost of Gordon Ramsay’s acclaimed restaurant in London (the city), located at The London (the Midtown hotel). Although, strictly speaking, the cuisine—and cooking techniques employed—are French, they're filtered through Ramsay's oh-so-British taste and sensibilities, marrying Gallic flair with English flavors.

The pedigree: Gordon Ramsay—‘nuff said. The chef is a household name in the U.K., and his reputation precedes him stateside thanks to his popular reality show "Hell’s Kitchen." The kitchen is currently run by New Zealand émigré Josh Emmett.

Signature dish: Roasted Scottish partridge with celeriac choucroute, black pudding and salsify and crème de cassis

But how British is it, bloke? If you’re looking for steak-and-kidney pie, you’ve come to the wrong place. But Ramsay is arguably the U.K.’s biggest culinary star, so it’s hard to get more British than that. Emett, who worked at two of Ramsay’s restaurants in London before coming to New York in 2006, insists that only minor adjustments were necessary to bring the concept across the pond. “Americans prefer slightly lighter cooking," he says. "They like to be looked after but not fussed over, and they like a more natural presentation on the plate."

The verdict: Mixed. While Adam Platt called the concept “consciously effete” and Frank Bruni dubbed the cooking “cautious,” Gordon Ramsay at the London was awarded two Michelin stars last fall.

Gordon Ramsay at The London
151 W. 54th St. between Sixth and Seventh Aves.
212-468-8888