James Beard Awards nominees 2009

Outstanding Restaurateur: Drew Nieporent

Corton was the critical smash hit of 2008—and that's without mentioning TONY's once-a-decade perfect rating. People have been blown away by Paul Liebrandt's sophisticated tasting menu, classic and refined French cooking from a chef previously famous for whimsical and sometimes inconsistent restaurants.

Many, including Frank Bruni in his December review, have credited Drew Nieporent with focusing his 32-year-old chef. So, did the nominated restaurateur offer Liebrandt a post in the old Montrachet space with a set of conditions—indirectly steering the kitchen to "oustandingness"? "It's been depicted that way, but I don't agree with that characterization," says Nieporent. "There was an intangible asset of goodwill towards the Montrachet premise, so when we opened our doors, those old customers were there." Alright, how about a tangible dish that brought old and new together? "If had to put my finger on one dish, in a restaurant that serves great wine and French food, it would be the foie gras."

Drew Nieporent also runs Nobu, Centrico and Tribeca Grill, but we weren't really talking about those places this year.

Pictured: Drew Nieporent (left) with Picholine's Terrance Brennan at the 2008 James Beard Awards