Waiting on Warhol

Indochine

430 Lafayette St. at Astor Place
212-505-5111

This is now: In 1992, a trio of employees—bus boy Huy Chi Le, manager Michael Callahan and server Jean-Marc Houmard—took over the restaurant, bringing it into the new millennium. Reworking classic dishes for a more sophisticated palate, the restaurant still draws a star-studded crowd, including Leonardo DiCaprio, Liev Schreiber and Marc Jacobs, to munch on spicy beef salad and Chilean sea bass in a spicy soy broth.

Keep the change: In 1984, the supermodel-approved crispy red snapper in a sweet-and-sour pimento sauce cost $17, but times (and models) change: Today it’ll set you back $28.