Your table will be ready…in 11 months

Good: Dovetail

What we said: John Fraser, the European-trained precisionist behind NYT two-star Compass, debuts as chef-owner with Dovetail, an Upper West Side restaurant with a mission: to stand out from the hood's crowded bistro scene. "People up here have had their fill of cafés," says Fraser. "With Dovetail, I will bring an elegant but casual experience, with a real chef in the house."

Reality: Stand out, indeed! Fraser's cooking reflects the chef's training (French Laundry) and travels (France, Spain) with an American menu anchored by Euro-tinted fare like clam chowder with smoked potatoes and rabbit-and-foie gras terrine with candied kumquats. A standout "Sunday suppa" has attracted many to the destination hood (yes, it is), including Frank Bruni, who surprisingly awarded it three stars in February.    

Dovetail
103 West 77th St. at Columbus Ave.
212-362-3800