Co.

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"Our pizzas are not always round,” declares the menu at Co., the hotly anticipated pizzeria from Sullivan Street Bakery guru Jim Lahey. (It’s pronounced “company.”) It’s only fitting, coming from the guy who hopes to break the mold for pizza-making in the city by bringing a bread maker’s keen craftsmanship to Neapolitan-style pies. Here, they’re created with a strong eye toward technique and artisanship, producing thin, lightly charred crusts in varieties like Ham and Cheese (prosciutto plus pecorino, Gruyere, buffalo mozzarella) and Popeye (an explosion of spinach, plus those same three cheeses and garlic). Crostini and salads round things out. The stark, wood-paneled room ditches the flash to keep the focus squarely on the pizzas, with two communal tables that inspire lotsa communing: The couple next to us happily swapped their raddichio-and-bechamel-topped slices for our Popeyes. Guess the restaurant’s name is pretty spot-on. 

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Chelsea restaurants, New York restaurants, Pizza restaurants