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NEW AMERICAN. You don't have to schlep to the country to have dinner in a country inn. All you have to do is take a subway down to SoHo, then head for the Savoy, where you'll find fireplaces, exposed brick walls, fresh flowers set in wooden boxes, beamed ceilings, and a hip, romantic vibe.

Upstairs, there's even a sexy little lounge, where you can relax on a sofa in front of a fire while you sip an aperitif. Also upstairs is a small dining room - six or so tables - where they serve a four-course chef's menu and prepare at least some of it in the open fireplace.

Downstairs, in the main dining room, there's the regular menu, a constantly changing market-driven selection of dishes with an emphasis on the freshest of vegetables, fish, duck, and organic veal. Meat eaters, don't despair: One of the house's signature entrees is a grilled hanger steak served with chanterelles.

The service is attentive and professional, and the crowd includes young trendies as well as not-so-young foodies. Plenty of romantic couples, too.

Compiled by Linda Perney

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SoHo restaurants, Manhattan restaurants