Cantina-chic in the Meatpacking District
Drinks: Heading straight to the bar for a few pre-dinner drinks, we perused a brief but extremely engaging house menu while shooting the breeze with Ben, the house “mixologist” who facilitated our drink decisions by asking whether we liked “sweet or spicy.” We dug the unlikely combinations: Who knew a vanilla-bean margarita could be so un-dessert with bitter lime and a kicky Chile de Arbol rim? The standout may have been the Chili Palmer―42 Below passion-fruit vodka, passion fruit and plenty of Serrano chili. “Surprisingly smooth” is how we’d describe both the cocktails and Ben: When Matt put him on the spot and asked him to concoct “something good” off the top of his head, the result was a kick-ass strawberry-ginger caipirinha which, according to Matt, “was the shit.” – Perrie Samotin
Appetizers: You’ll never dip another Dorito into prepackaged guac again after Los Dados. The chunky and creamy guacamole and crispy, non-oily handmade chips quickly had us ordering a second basket. Beef picadillo mini-tacos ($13) sparked much conversation—the meat came in such tender, savory shreds, we almost mistook them for pork carnitas. The house-recommended coriander-crusted tuna tostadas ($11) left the table divided, but the shrimp ceviche ($15) closed the rift with its perfectly calibrated acidity offset by cubes of avocado. – Jessie Pascoe
Entrees: Like Chicago’s Rick Bayless (the Batali of Mexican rustica), Sue Torres brings a serious dedication to regional ingredients and authenticity with her Los Dados menu. Her three-cheese quesadilla, for instance, featured a triad of offbeat cheese selections: Chihuahua, Oaxacan and Cotija—take that, Kraft “Mexican” shredded! After a strong round of starters, two plates of tacos arrived. Lamb barbacoa was our favorite; the moist meat was hand-pulled and resembled barbecued brisket until the gamey flavor of lamb rolled in at the last minute. The minimal preparation (only cilantro and tomato dressed the meat) resembled the taqueria style of Sunset Park’s 5th Ave, but with a Meatpacking sticker price at $16 for two. The coconut-infused cod ($18) was a little fussy and drizzled with a forgettable avocado-poblano sauce.
Enchiladas were…enchiladas. One was served with a rich mole poblano and smoked organic chicken, while the roasted pork was minimal and garnished with delicious pickled cabbage—and there wasn’t a glob of refried beans or rice pilaf in sight. A tamarind-glazed hanger steak was the most-discussed dish. We ordered medium-rare, but it arrived medium-well, with a noticeably charred coating. I like my steak medium-rare, so I was disappointed, but I also enjoy all things sweet and crunchy (the beef is marinated in Mexican Coca-Cola and finished with tamarind, coincidentally my favorite Jarritos flavor). Overall, Los Dados offers a collection of fresh-tasting, exquisitely sourced “poverty” dishes (to cite Bourdain), served to well-scrubbed crowd. But we credit Torres and owner David Rabin’s casual staff—the irony of splashing pipian on your Brioni tie seems to dissipate with a bite of that tender lamb. – Matt Rodbard
Desserts: Despite being stuffed to the point of hallucination, we ordered the guava-and cheese-empanadas ($8) and the churros ($7). The empanadas were a mixed bag: They came alive when garnished with the accompanying whipped cream and passion-fruit puree; alone, the taste veered into frozen-food territory. As for the churros, we’d snack on them forever, as long as they spiced up the caramel dipping sauce. – Jessie Pascoe
Atmosphere: “Cozy Meatpacking District restaurant” may sound like a laughable oxymoron, but Los Dados has done the impossible: turn a potentially swanky hard-sell into an inviting, accessible come-on. Bold, color-splashed walls anchor a surprisingly intimate space, punctuated by a melange of Mexican folk art, religious imagery, candelabras, metal pillars and geometric wood partitions. It’s a gussied-up cantina with enough down-home panache not to take itself too seriously. – Alexis L. Loinaz
Service: Wow, there’s a lot of synergy here: Our bartender and our waiter both gave the exact same menu recommendations, helpfully suggesting the lamb tacos (“not gamy!”) and the hanger steak (“marinated in Coca Cola!”). Sure, they were spot-on…but create your own life script, gentlemen. This isn’t Friday’s. Overall, an exceptionally friendly staff, with some odd hiccups: On the phone, they wouldn’t allow our group to book 7 p.m. because the restaurant was “full.” And yet, when we arrived at 6:30, not a single table was taken. On the other hand, those three extra dishes that “mistakenly” got sent out, along with the complimentary round of drinks? We’re so putting out tonight. – Kirk Miller
What we talked about:
Perrie’s scarily intimate knowledge of ceviche
Yucking it up in the "Meatpacking Bitch-strict"
5 Ninth’s disappointing food
Where the hell is Marcus Samuelsson’s new spot?
Who's Marcus Samuelsson?
Nannies: love ‘em or hate ‘em?
Mexican folk art: love it or hate it?
Please log in to comment