Metromix Fiveway: Wild Salmon

Hot or not? Our five editors check out this Midtown spot and let you know if it was good for them, too

By the Metromix Staff

July 19, 2007

 
Critic's Rating:
2

Metromix Fiveway: Wild Salmon
Hmmmm...something's fishy about this ceiling
Threeways? Sooooo 2001. Fourways? Not enough action. Fiveways? Now you’re talkin’. Our five insatiably hungry editors hit Wild Salmon on Restaurant Week to get down and dirty about the food, drinks and more. Be prepared for multiple … opinions.
 
Drinks: The wine list? Vast. The cocktails? Money. And by money, we mean not only a dated 1996 reference from the movie “Swingers,” but also serious $$$. We skipped the $40 selections (yeah, we love Hennessey XO, but we firmly believe the cost ratio between alcohol and, say, a new DVD player, should be kept in balance) and tested out the intriguing and more cost-effective “Twist of Fate” instead. At $12, this concoction of citrus vodka, Campari, lemon and lime juices offered up a pink veneer and slightly watered-down taste; nonetheless, it was a refreshing kickoff to our meal. – Kirk Miller

Appetizers: Of the three appetizers, the first —a gazpacho with shrimp, mussels and clams —had a definite bite, although the overtly fishy taste of something (we couldn’t put our finger on it) overwhelmed. The crisp nuts-and-berries salad was sprinkled with tasty candied walnuts, but it was the dried apricots that were the highlight. The most interesting of the three, a meaty California artichoke, was stuffed with soft lemon-herb cream cheese, dotted with bay shrimp, and served with a hollandaise-like sauce for dipping. – Perrie Samotin

Entrees: You don’t go to a place called Wild Salmon and order the, uh, flank steak now, do ya? So that’s exactly what four of us did. Turns out, we weren’t too wild about the salmon. The restaurant served up a grilled Southeast Alaskan coho version whose flavor and texture were inconsistent from plate to plate: One was too dry, while another had a flat, flaccid finish to it. As Matt so eloquently surmised, no one was doing the “food dance.” (Ask him for a demo; he’ll happily show you.) The saving grace was the fifth dish: herb-crusted halibut with fingerling potatoes and pancetta. Delicate and zesty with a pungent, vinegar-y punch, it promptly disappeared from the plate. – Alexis L. Loinaz

Desserts: Oddly, salmon seemed to seep into dessert, with one of the fruit sorbets tasting like our entrees—perhaps it was the place’s overwhelming power of suggestion. The dessert with the best presentation, though, was the lemon mousse. Sweet and creamy and served in a tall parfait glass, it packed no surprises, but no disappointments, either. Most of us ordered the Chocolate Indulgence cake—a rich, dense flourless treat drizzled with caramel sauce. Only one of us finished it, and we had to order two rounds of strong coffee to revive one of our fallen comrades who apparently suffered a sugar stroke. – Jessie Pascoe

Atmosphere and service: Even with Restaurant Week’s economical advantages and dressed-down seatings (us!), the crowd still leaned toward corporate lunchers. The space hasn’t changed much since English Is Italian: same sleek staircases and soothing commodes. Same open kitchen. An artistic interpretation of spawning salmon is new to the ceiling’s decor—reminds us of another kind of spawning, but we won’t go there. Service was knockout. We were thoroughly entertained by our server, Janice, who brought strong wit and knowledge of the restaurant’s Pac NW menu. She suggested the salmon, which we guess was her job. – Matt Rodbard

Off the menu

What we talked about:
Bored strippers, 10-year high-school reunions, hooking up at 10-year high-school reunions, vegan baked goods, finding a husband in Israel, drinking at work, cheeseball sales dudes in Gordon Gecko attire, Bruni vs. Chodorow (obviously)
What we liked: The cool, multilevel design; the groovy, retro lounge downstairs; the top-notch service
Who we spied: Corporate folk in suits, suits and more suits

What do YOU think of Wild Salmon? Have you tried the salmon? Will the place sink or swim? Post your comments.

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