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Every couple weeks we file proper restaurant reviews—with, deep breath, stars. On such occasions, Metromix dines unannounced and pays full price for the meal.
Is it a bowling alley with food or a restaurant with a bowling alley? That's a pretty legit question to ask about Williamsburg's Brooklyn Bowl—the nabe's second bowling alley after vintage-y The Gutter (and within, ahem, striking distance of it, no less). It's legit because the place has put some serious thought and moolah into both bowling and bingeing: Yep, it's got hi-tech lanes, spankin' acoustics and nifty digs. But it's also got some heavy-hitting grub from the guys behind Blue Ribbon. What's that? Blue Ribbon, baby! We're talking a full-on menu, including—cue the arias—their signature fried chicken. It's a brazen move that makes Brooklyn Bowl a major game-changer. Does it pay off? —ALL
Three in one!
Yep, it pays off big time. Actually, Brooklyn Bowl combines lanes, a restaurant and a concert space—it's an ADD jackpot if you're looking to strike while feasting on oyster po'boys and Glass Candy (the band that is). It's a gorgeous space: a friggin' huge converted ironworks factory decked out with wood beams, giant movie posters and vintage Coney Island carnival tchotchkes. The dining area itself, which surprisingly isn't drowned out by noise, is far from a footnote: Semi-circular booths and industrial bar tables are comfy-cool, and announce Brooklyn Bowl as a bonafide eatery. And make no mistake, this is a top-notch restaurant; you could ditch the bowling entirely and the restaurant would easily stand on its own. The staff is expertly trained (a manager immediately pulled a dish off our bill when she found out we weren't sold on it), presentation is crisp, and food is served until 4 a.m. The. Entire. Menu. —ALL
In defense of Brooklyn Bowl’s version of the legendary Blue Ribbon fried chicken
The single best piece of fried chicken I’ve ever tasted. Once the rust-colored matzo-meal crust was cracked away from the breast—rouged with paprika, cayenne and a Cajun spice rub—the real reward was biting into the juicy white meat. Wow. The leg and wing were crispy and tender as well, though noticeably undersized. The plate included textbook Southern-style mashed potatoes—incorporating a scary amount of butter. The bitter collards were lighter, though accented with fatty bits of smoked slab bacon. So let this be our addition to the BK Bowl fried chicken blog noise. But the highlights don’t end there… —MR
Good cop: Beef brisket sandwich, egg shooters, fries, French bread pizza
Glorious chicken notwithstanding, the menu here is actually quite different from the other Blue Ribbons. It's still a hodgepodge of comfort grub, but this one's got more of a diner feel to it, with crowd-pleasers aplenty (sloppy joe, ribs, sundaes) and…spiked milkshakes! Egg "shooters"—a riff on deviled eggs—included a delicious heaping of olive-oil mayo and pickled jalapeno peppers, giving it a spicy-smooth punch. I enjoyed the savory beef brisket sandwich, which was moist and tender and came stuffed with crunchy pickles. Our jaws dropped when the "Rock. And Roll. Fries" (yes, there are periods in there) arrived: It's the SUV of fries—a hulking mound dripping with melty aged provolone, sharp white cheddar and a finishing blast of chicken gravy. The dish is actually layered with condiments—much like nachos—so that when you get to the bottom, you're left with a bed of gooey goodness. The French bread pizza, though, was the most divisive: We ordered "The Fatty" (ham, pepperoni, pulled pork, sausage, mushrooms, artichoke, eggplant), which was a terrific meat bomb. A bit much for some peeps, not for me. (See Matt's take below.) Since the French bread had some heft, it held up the heavy toppings nicely; no limp crust here. Unfortunately, it was a spectacular mess to slice—DIY, with a serrated-knife. Not a fan. —ALL
Bad cop: Smoked trout salad, mac 'n' cheese, French bread pizza, Mind Reader cocktail
Any Jewish deli disciple knows that a smoked fish spread packs punch—pass the Tic Tacs! But the version here was too heavy on cream and dill, lacking any sort of salty or smoky side hook. Worst of all, a medium-sized bone turned up. Bland to boot was our dinner portion of mac 'n' cheese, which can be ordered with add-ons like black olives or smoked chicken for an extra four bucks. Probably a wise investment. Our bowl was all oversized elbow noodles and toasted breadcrumbs. Where’d the cheese go? As for that French bread pizza, we’re split. As you've read, Alexis is a fan. I think the dish should be reserved for dorm rooms and latchkey child rearing. We do agree that our Fatty was impossible to cut with a knife. Maybe they can provide a mini pizza slicer? The Mind Reader cocktail—BB’s version of the Manhattan—apparently predicted that I didn’t want a real cocktail that night. It recalled sweet candy and lime, with nothing close to bourbon in the mix. —MR
I love rock ‘n’ roll (with fries)
Long has NYC craved a large-scale concert venue with a proper restaurant attached. And with news last week that Bowery Presents is booking the 600-capacity hall, this will be a proper concert venue in time. But if only there was a way to enjoy a basket of those cheese fries AND Britt Daniel shredding on stage, at the same time. We’d buy a season ticket. Hint: To-go frites cones. —MR
Photo by Sam Horine
What other people are saying...
saraht from Cobble Hill, Brooklyn - September 10, 2009 at 9:41 PM
This review makes me excited to try the food. I stopped by here the other weekend and was surprised by the size of the space as well as all they ha...
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