Despite the noise, entrées are conversation-starters
A restaurant named
Commerce evokes the hubbub of Wall
Street, so it’s almost unsurprising that this Village eatery is fairly
submerged in noise. It was difficult to appreciate the fantastic
European-flecked fare, the boxy, Deco-style lanterns, and the gorgeous bar when
we were shouting ourselves hoarse amid clattering silverware and noisy co-eaters.
(We’re talking to you, Calvin Klein model one table over with your hanging-on-every-word
blonde date.) The combination of tiled columns and a polished marble floor
produced such ricocheting noise that even a literary-agent friend accustomed to
wheeling and dealing was left hoarse and exhausted by evening’s end.
Thankfully, according to co-owner Tony Zazula, help is on
the way via David Joel, the artist who crafted the gently bohemian mural lining
one wall. In June, Zazula will install two more Joel murals along with copper
panels and soundproofing, which should take the edge off the cacophony.
Until then, take heed of the bar area when making a
reservation. Among its positive attributes: It was empty at 8 p.m. on a recent Saturday; several proper tables
line the walls; and the glittery, mahogany bar itself—and its tipplers, the
Beautiful People of The West Village—are gorgeous works of art. Much of the
establishment oozes class without being stuffy: Wines by the glass are poured
as tastes, so each diner has the opportunity to sample before committing. The
gratis bread basket is refilled at your whim and boasts quite an assortment of
treats: A hot olive roll exuded the aroma of Kalamatas, raisin soda bread
without mouth-puckering rye took the edge off our gnawing hunger, and my
companions grew wide-eyed over soft mini-pretzels.
Appetizers bore hefty price tags, however, and were less
impressive. Though a friend proclaimed oysters with a dollop of green apple and
mint gelée “the essence of summer, like a mojito,” I was less charmed; the
oyster’s flavor was overwhelmed by its topping, and at $3 a pop, I want to
taste that oyster. Likewise, for your money, the tomato-based “ragu of odd
things”—a generous portion of tripe, trotters and oxtail so tender you don’t
question the body part you’re consuming—is a better value than six earthy
mushroom ravioli for $16.
But smart diners should skip the wallet-denting starters and
splurge on entrées, which were uniformly lovely. Chef and co-owner Harold Moore
has cooked for both Daniel Boulud and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and it shows.
Spring-struck diners seeking something light will rejoice in a fat slice of
halibut resting smugly in a sauce of sugar snap peas, snow peas and green peas
pureed together with the lightest notion of speck ham and unmistakably heady
black truffles. Or they could tuck into snapper in a green curry aromatic with
ginger, lemongrass and coconut, matched texturally by forkfuls of sweetly gooey
roasted eggplant.
Those not busting out a bathing suit any time soon might
select either a toothsome pork-stuffed breast of veal with a knockout tarragon
mustard sauce, or the pasta carbonara, the best rendition seen in a long time:
A gently frizzling egg splayed atop a pile of housemade noodles strewn with
guanciale and bacon. But wait—in a nod to molecular gastronomy, the yolk itself
is a yolk, but the “white” is actually bacon-infused crème anglaise.
Bacon.
Infused.
Crème anglaise. Though a friend groaned as he took his last bite, at
$23, this is perhaps the best deal on the menu.
Take a breather—this is heavy stuff—and eyeball the dessert
menu. Skip a dry chocolate soufflé with high-maintenance presentation (banana
crème anglaise is drizzled into its center tableside) and head straight for a
revelatory rice pudding. Echoing the carbonara, the dessert looks like a fried
egg: an elegant nub of mango sorbet perched atop a white disc of sweet,
voluptuous coconut risotto. The dish gets an ineffable lightness by Italian meringue
that has been whipped in, and a kick from the lime zest sprinkled over it. When
we squeezed out from behind our table—really, Commerce, could you be a bit less…
commercial and ditch a table or two?—it was with summer on the brain.
The net results: what
people are saying online:[
Yelp]: “Yawn-tastic. I could have slept through this meal
and come out feeling the same way."
[
New York Magazine]:
“If splendid
food comes first, with points for local-idol sightings, we’ll write off the
painful din...and just shower this historic-landmark spot with raves.”
[
New York Times]: “While there’s some wonderful food…there’s
also some food that’s not cooked or seasoned as it should be, and there’s food
that’s too fussy, not just for the ambience but also for its own good.”
Commerce
50 Commerce St.
at Bedford St.
212-524-2301
Mon.-Sat. 5:30 p.m.–11 p.m.
Sun. 1 p.m.–9:30 p.m.
Appetizers: $11–$19
Entrees: $23–$34
Photo: Mea Tefka
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