Just like the hipsters that inhabit the surrounding Carroll Gardens neighborhood, Po—an offshoot of the West Village trattoria—has set up shop in Brooklyn. And it feels right at home.
Leaving the legacy of Mario Batali, who was once affiliated with the Manhattan location (he opened it in 1993), the Brooklyn outpost is a relaxed and unrushed affair on equally laid-back Smith Street. Wine specials, rather than dinner specials, are handwritten on a chalkboard above a bar, where seating is reserved for walk-ins.
Chatty servers, who have as many friends stopping by to say hello as one might at a birthday party, attend to a snug restaurant filled with reservation holders—a characteristic brought over from the big city, no doubt—who are there to indulge in chef Lee McGrath’s seasonal menu. (He also runs the kitchen at the West Village spot, on Cornelia Street.)
The summer version of the menu is a bit heavier than you’d expected for warm weather. Ravioli doused in a deliciously sweet brown-butter-and-balsamic sauce is stuffed with creamy white beans, and orecchiette come smothered in a hearty sauce of sweet sausage and broccoli rabe.
Gnocchi are made daily, and, for summertime, they’re topped with a spring-leek ragu. There are salads and entrees of grilled pork chops or salmon, and a hefty hash of sauteed veal sweetbreads with potatoes is best shared. (Our tip: Brings leftovers home and top with an egg for breakfast).
The menu is reminiscent of the Cornelia Street Po, as is the decor. The same green wainscoting adorns the exterior, while the inside is decorated simply with pale-colored walls and white linen on tables.
The casual vibe nicely complements the food, which is perfect for long lazy evenings spent catching up with friends, which is what everyone seems to be doing. No one is in a rush, and if you plan on dining at Po Brooklyn, you shouldn’t be either. This is Brooklyn, after all. Those with beckoning Blackberries would be better off in Manhattan.
Po Brooklyn
276 Smith St. between Sackett and Degraw Sts.
718-875-1980
Cuisine: Rustic Italian
Average entree: $18-$20
Hours: Tue.-Thu., Sun. 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m.
Fri.-Sat. 5:30 p.m.-11:30 p.m.
The Scene: Neighborhoodies looking for
no-fuss food and a laid-back vibe
The Inside Track: If you don’t have a
reservation, try heading for the bar: The
restaurant keeps eight seats open every night.
Up close and Po-sonal
Po Brooklyn is a relaxed and unrushed affair
By Fabiana Santana, Special to Metromix
July 17, 2007- Critic's Rating:
-
The beloved Village trattoria blooms in Carroll Gardens
(Credit: Noah Kalina)
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