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This is innovative seafood cookery sans pretense. What you get here is extraordinary choice--whether from the extensive raw bar or in the dining room, where just about every sea creature you can think of is available at some point, poached, grilled, roasted, or baked.

The restaurant is run by a very hip husband-and-wife team. In 1996, Jeremy and Jennifer Marshall opened up on this corner in the northern reach of SoHo. He mans the stove; with a background as a wine steward at Windows on the World, she's the brains behind the fish-friendly wine list.

The dining room is a romantic place to relax over dinner: pale yellow walls set off cushy banquettes; shell-encrusted lights cast a warm glow; service is attentive, and the waitstaff will patiently explain the subtleties of the menu to those who wouldn't know a bluepoint from a littleneck.

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SoHo restaurants, Manhattan restaurants, Seafood restaurants