Fried chicken: Bird was the word
Forget the Chinese zodiac—what ox? 2009 was the Year of the Bird: from the new southern stylings of The Redhead to New American touches of Buttermilk Channel. From the strikingly un-Italian rendition at Locanda Verde to Momofuku Ssam’s booked-months-in-advance Old Bay, Korean-style duo. And, of course, to the rebirth of fry daddy Charles Gabriel’s shuttered joint as Charles' Country Pan Fried Chicken.
Simple, gloriously unhealthy and in synch with the times, fried chicken even out-bacon'd bacon. Which bodes well for that perpetually about-to-reopen fortress of fowl, Pies & Thighs: When they finally get back in business, fried chicken will be so out that it’s in. Genius. —Krista Garcia


