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Any doubts that the Upper West Side has finally arrived as a culinary locus can be pooh-pooh’d with the opening of this sleek modern American spot from Sea Grill vet Ed Brown. Here, Brown culls influences from Japan (wild scallops with Okinawa sweet potato) to Austria (pumpkin risotto with braised chicken wings), with an emphasis on prime ingredients and an austere approach. “When I was 23, I used to think, ‘How many more elements can I put on this dish to make it better,’” says the 44-year-old. “[Now] it’s, ‘How fewer ingredients can I put on this dish?’ It takes a lot of technique to put two ingredients on the plate.”