David Suro has had a life long affair with tequila. After migrating to the U.S. in 1985, he returned to his hometown of Guadalajara to produce his groundbreaking tequila, Siembra Azul. The busy (and quite charming) activist (his nonprofit Siembra Azul Foundation provides medical and educational assistance to Mexican migrant workers in the U.S.) and restaurateur (Los Catrines Restaurant and Tequila’s Bar in Philadelphia) found time to talk to us about this complex and misunderstood spirit right in time for Cinco de Mayo

First of all, what exactly is tequila?
Tequila is the most complex, sophisticated spirit available. And the most misunderstood. Raw agave takes 12 years to mature—think of 12 springs, summers, falls, winters [that adds] many characters and flavors. Tequila has more flavors than any other spirit.

How are you really supposed to drink tequila?
The shots and cheap-tequila phenomenon—that's the wrong tequila. There are two groups of tequila. Mixto—that’s what you want to stay away from. Then there’s 100 percent agave tequila—sophisticated, complex. I recommend sipping it in a snifter. Forget the lime and salt. Mother Nature took 12 years to make it and you’re going to shoot it?

What makes a good tequila good?
Tequila is like wine. There are many regions—and within those regions are micro-regions—and some are better. Tasting a good tequila is an invitation to a universe of flavors.

When most Americans think of tequila, we picture wild kids taking shots on spring break, or remember bad experiences. Why such a bad reputation?
That started in World War II. U.S. distilleries were low and there were dangers in crossing the Atlantic. There was a shortage of spirits. [The U.S.] looked to their neighbors, like Mexico. But it takes 12 years for real tequila and they couldn't wait, so they were forced to adulterate with sugar, etc. It became popular, it was cheap. And dangerous. It had such a bad flavor, it needed lime and salt.

Someone once told me that nobody in Mexico would ever drink Patron. True?
Yes, but it’s only because Patron isn’t available in Mexico yet. Americans consume much more tequila than Mexicans, though. In fact, New York City consumes more super-premium tequila than Mexico City and Guadalajara combined. Mexicans are fans more of brandy and whisky.

You typically don't think of tequila as a "dinner" drink—can you pair it with food?
Yes! Tequila can have up to  300 differerent flavors, so it's really the most versatile spirit to pair with food. It’s so easy to work with. Blanco tequila is fruity, citrusy and pairs best with seafood and poultry, and aged tequila goes best with meats.

What's the most expensive bottle you've sampled?
We had a $1,000 bottle of Porfidio Barrique—it's not even available anymore—at one of my restaurants. It was eight-tenths full, and a bartender dropped it. It broke.

Was it good?
No. But I like blanco, not aged tequila.

What happened to the bartender?
He's still working. It was an accident.

What's the most you’ve consumed in a day?
I could have two shots of the—I don’t want to name brands—the mixto tequila and be done for two days. But good tequila? I can sit and drink with friends, sometimes a few bottles among us, and still be able to run my five miles the next morning. Good tequila is the least harmful of any spirit, it's easy for body to assimilate. It's made with 80 percent fructose, 20 percent glucose. [That's why] people say they have no hangover.

When you’re in New York, where do you like to go for tequila?
La Esquina, Café Frida, Centrico. Also Toloache, Dos Caminos, of course. And Brandy Library. They used to have five tequilas on their menu. Now they have around 75.

I know it’s actually mescal and not tequila that has the worm, but what' s the deal with that?
That was started by kids in Mexico. Now it's a succesful thing. Eat the worm and you hallucinate; eat the worm and you have no need for Viagra. All stupid stuff. When worms are in plants, it means [the plants] are sick, so it's like poor quality. Worms are good to cook, not to drink.

David Suro, along with a panel of fellow experts, will be teaching Tequila: The Future of Tradition at Astor Center on May 9.